Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando
Overview
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The Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, while often referred to as Madrid’s "other art gallery", is far from that. In its role as the royal fine arts academy it has trained and nurtured an incredible number of Spanish artists over the centuries. A smattering of the academy’s more illustrious alumni includes Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Antonio López García, Juan Luna, Oscar de la Renta and Fernando Botero. During his life, Francisco Goya was a director of the prestigious institution.

Established by order of King Fernando VI in the middle of the 18th century, the academy was moved about twenty years later, under King Charles III, to its present location in the Goyeneche Palace on Calle Alcalá minutes from Puerta del Sol. The palace, originally designed by José Benito Churrigera for the Goyeneche family in 1724, was renovated in 1773 for academic use by Diego de Villanueva. It was during the renovation that the original baroque façade was modified to the neo-classical one we see today.

Thanks to royal patronage and an illustrious line of past students the walls of the Real Academia de Bellas Artes are lined with works by Zurbarán, Murillo, Velázquez, Goya, Ribera, Juan Gris, Pablo Serrano and Juan de Juanes amongst others. Serving as a museum, gallery and art institute, in addition to the proliferation of Spanish artists, the academy has superb pieces by Giovanni Bellini, Correggio, Rubens and Giuseppe Arcimboldo.

The 1st floor is primarily devoted to 16th through 19th century paintings and is considered to be the most noteworthy. It is here that the old masters such as Van Dyck and Rubens and drawings by Raphael and Titian hang.

It is also on the ground floor that we find the crème de la crème of the Spanish collection. One hall showcases work by Zurbarán; be sure to look for his outstanding “Fray Pedro Machado”. Look for the breathtaking “San Jerónimo” by El Greco.

Rooms 11 to 16 showcase Alonso Cano (1601-67) and José de Ribera (1591-1652). In the other ground floor rooms are minor portraits by Velázquez hanging alongside the occasional Rubens, Tintoretto and Bellini. Rooms 17 to 22 offer a number of artists and numerous works by Murillo.

In the area dedicated solely to Goya we will find 13 pieces of his work, including self-portraits the best of which is considered to be the one painted in 1815; portraits of King Fernando VII and the notorious minister Manuel Godoy, along with one on bullfighting and his rather grim "Madhouse".

Upstairs house the more recent work, drawings by Picasso as well as works by Joaquín Sorolla, Juan Gris, Eduardo Chillida and Ignacio Zuloaga.

Fun Fact: Two of the greatest alumni of the Academia were also two of the most rebellious; in their personal lives as well as in the art they created. Both Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dalí dropped out to pursue their own paths - and our lives are richer as a result.

In total the Real Academia de Bellas Artes is home to more than 1,500 paintings and almost 600 sculptures, ranging from the 15th century to the present. It is also home to the National Chalcography Museum which contains original plates used by several painters such as Goya to engrave on copper or brass.

Fun Fact: Situated on the fifth floor is the Circulo radio station. It is from here, on every World Book Day, that “Don Quixote” is read aloud and broadcast to Spanish speaking countries.

Before leaving choose either the rooftop terrazzo with its stupendous view of the city or the ground floor bar, a longtime Madrid intellectual and artistic hangout, for a much needed café.

Museum hours of operation: Tuesday to Sunday 10am-3pm (15.00). Closed Mondays. Hours may vary during July and August.
Admission: €6; Wednesdays are free.

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WendyCrawfordWrites.com

Writer and travel aficionado with an addiction to Spain - that's me in a nutshell!

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